Hostel Shoppe - Volae Chaintube Installation Instructions

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Chain Tube Installation Instructions
A chain tube helps protect your leg from grease stains without adding a bulky chain guard or extra driveline friction. Keep in mind that chaintubes will last a long time as long as you are not deflecting the chain. A chain tube is not typically an acceptable substitute for an idler.
We're performing this installation on a Volae recumbent, but the process is largely the same for any recumbent with a drive-side idler.
You'll need the following parts:

(1) Teflon Chain Tubing (100cm)
(1) HP Velotechnik Chain Tube Spring Clips

You'll need the following tools (for a Volae):

6mm Allen wrench
13mm box wrench or socket
Small pliers
Very sharp utility knife
A workstand is very nice.

Start by removing your seat for easier access.
Before taking anything else apart, shift your bike into the large chainring and measure for proper tube length. Line up the tubing along the chain and mark the proper length. Each bike will vary, but you'll want to have at least an inch behind the front derailleur and in front of the rear idler to avoid jamming.

Use your very sharp utility knife to cut the chain tube to length. Make sure it's a clean cut - don't try to use a steak knife, hacksaw or anything but a VERY SHARP utility knife!
Save the cut off for your rear tubing section.

Hopefully you have a SRAM chain with a PowerLink installed. If not, you'll need a chain tool (and skills) to break the chain.
Locate the PowerLink and split the chain. Remove the rear idler using your 6mm Allen and 13mm wrench. Pay attention to the order of the parts in the idler assembly.

HPV's spring clip is a bit too small to fit around the Volae idler spacers, but that's easily fixed by spreading the clip's mounting hole slightly with your pliers. You want the hole just big enough so the clip can float freely over the spacers. You do NOT want the clip to get tight when you reassemble the idler on the bike.
Repeat for the shorter rear clip.

It's time to wrestle the clips and rubber retaining sleeves over the chain tubes - and we do mean wrestle! Avoid using lubes or solvents, but warm soapy water may help the process, as will the good-ole' shop standby: saliva.
Keep in mind that this is supposed to be tight - you don't want the chain tube to slip out of the spring clip while you're riding!

Pre-assemble the whole thing on your bench before installing:

The mounting holes of the clips should just float around the idler washers.
The forward chain tube should be installed in the longer spring clip.
The rear chain tube should be installed in the shorter spring clip.
There should be at least an inch of space between the ends of the chain tubes and the idler.
There should be at least an inche of space between the ends of the chain tubes and any derailleur or chainring.

Use gravity as your helper to feed the chain through the tubes BEFORE you install the idler. After you have the chain fed through the idler and tube assembly bolt it back on to the frame using your 6mm Allen and 13mm wrench. Make sure the mounting clips are not pinched by the washers and can float freely after tightening.
Double check your chain routing through the derailleurs and reconnect the chain halves. Also make sure you haven't twisted the chain inside the tube (if you have, it'll be coming out both ends at an angle). Run through the gears on the stand to ensure there is no chaintube interference with the derailleurs.

Completed Installation Pictures:

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Chain Tube Installation Instructions A chain tube helps protect your leg from grease stains without adding a bulky chain guard or extra driveline friction. Keep in mind that chaintubes will last a long time as long as you are not deflecting the chain. A chain tube is not typically an acceptable substitute for an idler. We're performing this installation on a Volae recumbent, but the process is largely the same for any recumbent with a drive-side idler. You'll need the following parts: (1) Teflon Chain Tubing (100cm) (1) HP Velotechnik Chain Tube Spring Clips You'll need the following tools (for a Volae): 6mm Allen wrench 13mm box wrench or socket Small pliers Very sharp utility knife A workstand is very nice.
	Start by removing your seat for easier access. Before taking anything else apart, shift your bike into the large chainring and measure for proper tube length. Line up the tubing along the chain and mark the proper length. Each bike will vary, but you'll want to have at least an inch behind the front derailleur and in front of the rear idler to avoid jamming.
	Use your very sharp utility knife to cut the chain tube to length. Make sure it's a clean cut - don't try to use a steak knife, hacksaw or anything but a VERY SHARP utility knife! Save the cut off for your rear tubing section.
	Hopefully you have a SRAM chain with a PowerLink installed. If not, you'll need a chain tool (and skills) to break the chain. Locate the PowerLink and split the chain. Remove the rear idler using your 6mm Allen and 13mm wrench. Pay attention to the order of the parts in the idler assembly.
	HPV's spring clip is a bit too small to fit around the Volae idler spacers, but that's easily fixed by spreading the clip's mounting hole slightly with your pliers. You want the hole just big enough so the clip can float freely over the spacers. You do NOT want the clip to get tight when you reassemble the idler on the bike. Repeat for the shorter rear clip.
	It's time to wrestle the clips and rubber retaining sleeves over the chain tubes - and we do mean wrestle! Avoid using lubes or solvents, but warm soapy water may help the process, as will the good-ole' shop standby: saliva. Keep in mind that this is supposed to be tight - you don't want the chain tube to slip out of the spring clip while you're riding!
	Pre-assemble the whole thing on your bench before installing: The mounting holes of the clips should just float around the idler washers. The forward chain tube should be installed in the longer spring clip. The rear chain tube should be installed in the shorter spring clip. There should be at least an inch of space between the ends of the chain tubes and the idler. There should be at least an inche of space between the ends of the chain tubes and any derailleur or chainring.
	Use gravity as your helper to feed the chain through the tubes BEFORE you install the idler. After you have the chain fed through the idler and tube assembly bolt it back on to the frame using your 6mm Allen and 13mm wrench. Make sure the mounting clips are not pinched by the washers and can float freely after tightening. Double check your chain routing through the derailleurs and reconnect the chain halves. Also make sure you haven't twisted the chain inside the tube (if you have, it'll be coming out both ends at an angle). Run through the gears on the stand to ensure there is no chaintube interference with the derailleurs.
Completed Installation Pictures: